How To Repair Broken Bike Brake Cable

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Replacing the brake cable is a key aspect of routine bicycle maintenance. While it's a little tricky, in that location's no demand to rush to a bike mechanic if your cablevision is past its prime number. Inspect the inner cable and outer housing regularly, and replace them once a year or when they're frayed, worn, or rusty. Since techniques might vary depending on your bicycle. Consult a bike repair manual for specific instructions relating to your bicycle.

1. 1

   Snip the crimped end off of the inner cable. Observe the end of the restriction cable that sticks out of the retention clamp on the braking mechanism. This is the wheel-cease of the cablevision, as opposed to the end that attaches to the lever. Utilize a pair of wire cutters to snip off the crimp on the finish.^[one]

   • It'll be easier to slide the sometime cable out of its housing if you lot snip off the crimped end. Otherwise, it'll might get defenseless inside of the housing.
   • Your new cable should come with a new end crimp. If it doesn't, cable end crimps are cheap and available at wheel shops.

2. 

   2

   Loosen the pinch bolt with a 5 mm Allen key. Locate the compression bolt that secures the cable to the memory clamp. It has a small half-dozen-sided indentation that fits a v mm Allen key. Insert the Allen central into the indentation, twist it counterclockwise to loosen the bolt, then slide out the brake cablevision.^[2]

   • The brake cable's housing might have ferrules or end caps that secure information technology to the frame, lever, or retention clamp. Be sure to safely store these and whatsoever small parts to avoid losing them.

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3. 

   3

   Turn the barrel adjuster at the handlebar. Discover the adjuster, which is a small barrel adjacent to the brake lever on the handlebar that secures the cablevision to the lever. The adjuster and lever each have slots, or thin openings that look similar straight lines. Using your fingers, rotate the adjuster counterclockwise until its slot lines up with the one in the lever.^[3]

   • For a straight-handled bike, the restriction cable runs through the adjuster, and a nipple at the end of the cablevision slides into the brake lever.
   • In a road cycle with curved handlebars, the cable threads straight into a clamp inside the lever, so skip this stride if yous don't have an adjuster.^[4]

4. 

   4

   Slide the cable out from the restriction lever. For straight handlebars, pull the brake lever, so slide the cable through the slots in the adjuster and lever. The rounded end of the cablevision, or nipple, fits into a slot within the lever. Proceed pulling the lever equally you lot slide the nipple out of the slot to stop detaching the cable.

   • For curved handlebars, pull the brake lever, so find where the cable threads into a clamp within the lever mechanism. For some models, you can just pull the cable out of the clamp when the lever is engaged.^[5]
   • For other models, yous might need to engage the lever several times to detach or attach the cable, or yous might have to remove a cable cover to admission the clench. Consult a bike repair transmission or search online for your bike model's specific method.^[six]

5. 

   5

   Remove the outer cable housing, if y'all're replacing it. Slide the housing out from the slots that hook it to the bicycle's frame. If the cable housing is attached to your frame with zip ties, cut and discard them. Cheque the ends of the housing for plastic or metal ferrules, or end caps, that secure information technology to the bike's lever and anchor.^[7]

   • Y'all might non need to replace the housing if information technology'south in skilful shape. However, you lot'll definitely demand to supplant information technology if information technology's worn, stiff, rusty, packed with dirt, or has any kinks.
   • For rear wheel brakes, a section of housing runs from the handlebars, and some other runs from the wheel. The section that runs from the wheel gets dingy more easily, and you might simply demand to supervene upon this section.^[viii]
   • It's wise to have pictures of how the cable housing is threaded around your bicycle's frame earlier removing it. That way, you'll have a reference just in example you forget.^[ix]
   • For a road bike with curved handlebars, you might demand to take off the grip tape to remove the cable housing. Peel off the tape, if necessary, then re-tape the handlebars when you attach the new housing.^[10]

6. 

   6

   Slide the inner cable out of the housing, if yous're non replacing it. If you're leaving any sections of cable housing in place, grab an end of inner cablevision and gently slide it out of the housing. If the cable has a nipple, pull it out from this terminate, every bit the nipple won't fit through the casing.^[xi]

   • If there are ii sections of cable housing, effort snipping the exposed inner cable that runs between the sections. Information technology'south easier to pull shorter lengths of cable through each section of housing than information technology is to slide out the enter cablevision.

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1. ane

   Brand sure your new cablevision matches the old one. Different brake cables are specifically designed for straight handlebars and drop handlebars. Double cheque that your new cable is fabricated for your bike. Be sure any nipples or end caps on the new cable friction match the old one.^[12]

   • To ensure that y'all get the correct replacement, take the old cable to a wheel store and ask an employee there to assistance y'all find a friction match.
   • If y'all're replacing the cable housing, be sure that the housing is labelled for brakes. Shift cable housing isn't as potent and could buckle.^[13]

2. 2

   Cut your new cablevision housing to match the former one. If you're replacing the cable housing, hold the new casing against the old ane. Measure accurately; if the new housing is besides long, the inner cable will be exposed to too much friction. Use a wheel-specific cable-cut tool or high-quality wire cutters to cut the new casing every bit cleanly as possible.^[14]

   • Use caution when using wire cutters or whatsoever other sharp tools.
   • If your bicycle has rear wheel brakes and 2 sections of housing, cut your new housing to match both sections.
   • After cutting the new cablevision housing, inspect the cut ends. If the cuts aren't clean and foursquare, remove any rough edges with a metal boom file.^[xv]

3. iii

   Install the new cable housing, if y'all're replacing information technology. If there were any ferrules or end caps attached to the old housing, slide them onto the ends of the new i. Hook the new housing into the slots that secure information technology to the frame. If applicable, make certain the ferrule that fits into the handlebars and the one that fits into the retention commodities are in the right places.^[xvi]

   • If in that location are any ferrules, don't slide them into the lever, adjuster, or retention clamp yet. You still need to slide the inner cable through the housing.
   • The brake cablevision will not work properly if the housing bends sharply. Ensure whatever spots where the housing curves effectually the handlebars and down the frame are smoothen and gentle.
   • If necessary, secure the housing to the frame with minor naught ties. Later on pulling them tightly, cutting the backlog lengths off of the zip ties for a cleaner await.^[17]

4. 

   iv

   Thread the cable through the outer housing. Carefully slide the cablevision through the unabridged length of the outer casing. If you take a rear wheel brake and two sections of casing, start by threading the section that runs from the handlebars. Make sure the stop of the cable that attaches to the brake lever is at the right end of the bike.^[18]

   • The end of the cablevision that slides into the retention clamp at the brake mechanism should be just plain, blank wire. If an terminate of the cable has a nipple, brand sure it's positioned about the handlebars.
   • For a wheel with a rear wheel brake, slide the remaining length of the cable through the second section after threading the first.
   • Before threading the second department, you tin slide rubber donuts over the inner cable. They're bachelor online and at bike shops, and will preclude the exposed metal cable from rubbing confronting the frame and messing up your paint task.^[19]

5. 

   5

   Slide the inner cable into the brake lever. For straight handlebars, pull the brake lever, and so hook the nipple into the rounded gap within the lever. Ensure the adjuster slot is still aligned with the lever slot, and so slide the cable into the slots. With the cable in place, undo the brake lever and twist the adjuster clockwise to secure the cable.^[xx]

   • For driblet handlebars, engage the brake lever, observe the clamp or eyelet inside, then thread the cease of the cable through the mechanism.^[21]
   • Check the manufacturer's instructions for your model's specific threading method and, if necessary, replace the cable embrace.^[22]

6. 

   6

   Secure the cable to the retention clamp. The retention clench, or anchor, is where the other cable end attaches to the brake mechanism. Turn the compression commodities counterclockwise with the Allen primal, loosen it, pinch the brake pads so they touch the wheel, and then slide the cable through the retention clamp. Pull the cable tightly, replace the pinch bolt, and turn the bolt clockwise with the Allen primal to tighten it.^[23]

   • While optional, a 4th hand tool makes it easier to tighten the bolt. Grasp the stop of the cable with the tool's opening, then clasp the handles to tighten the cable every bit you turn the pinch commodities clockwise with the Allen wrench.^[24]

7. 7

   Slide the ferrules at the ends of the cablevision housing into place. After securing the ends of the inner cable, slide the outer housing's ferrules or end pieces over the butt adjuster and retention anchor. The verbal method of fitting the housing into the frame vary by model, so check a bicycle repair manual if you're not sure.^[25]

   • If you don't have a repair manual handy, observe your bike's model number and search for the manual online. Nigh manufacturers publish didactics manuals on their websites.
   • If you removed the grip record from drop handlebars, re-tape them. Tape over the new cable and housing so they're in the same position equally the one-time set. Buy new grip tape online or at your local bicycle store.

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1. 

   1

   Pull the lever to cheque the cable resistance and brake mechanism. After securing the inner cable and outer housing, appoint the restriction lever to check your piece of work. Pull the lever v to 10 times, and see if you run across your preferred level of resistance. Equally y'all pull, check the restriction pads and make certain they come into contact with the wheel.^[26]

   • If the lever is too tight, loosen the barrel adjuster at the lever or unfasten the pinch bolt to give the cablevision more slack.
   • If the lever feels loose, tighten the barrel adjuster. If it'southward nevertheless too loose, unfasten the pinch bolt, pull the cable tighter with a pair of needle nose pliers or the 4th hand tool, then tighten the pinch bolt.
   • For the near accurate method of adjusting the tension, use a fourth manus tool and torque wrench to tighten the cable to 6 Nm or to the manufacturer's specifications.

2. 

   2

   Trim excess cable, then crimp the end. After adjusting the tension, use your wire cutters to snip the end of the cablevision. Slide a cable cease cap over the trimmed cease to prevent fraying, then squash it into place with pliers.^[27]

   • Some bike mechanics recommend leaving about iii inches (7.6 cm) of cablevision exposed from the brake clamp so there's enough length for futurity adjustments. However, at that place's a hazard that this length could get caught in the bike or restriction mechanism.
   • If you cull to proceed the stop long, hook the extra cablevision securely around the brake, and exist sure it doesn't obstruct the cycle or restriction pads. Alternatively, just trim the excess wire to about ³⁄₄ inch (1.9 cm).

3. 

   3

   Do a concluding cheque by rocking your bike with the brake engaged. Double check that your brakes work properly before you get riding. Walk the bike forrard, and then pull the brake lever, and make certain the braking wheel has stopped. Rock the bike forward a fleck to brand sure the restriction doesn't budge.^[28]

   • If you have trouble, ensure the cable's connections to the lever and retention ballast are stable. Double check that engaging the lever causes the restriction pads to close around the cycle. If you can't detect the trouble, consult a bike mechanic.

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Add New Question

• Question

  When I fit my cable to the restriction handle, it has no tension. What am I doing wrong? (It's an old bike.)

  

  Stewie Griffin

  Community Answer

  You are not putting plenty tension on the calipers of the brakes. Endeavour loosening the nut on the calipers, pulling the brake wires more, then re-tightening the nut.

• Question

  How do I detach the front brakes?

  

  If you use a V restriction or a U brake, just push the quick release button and it'll pop off.

• Question

  What happens if I apply a gear cablevision for brakes?

  

  The brakes will begin to stop working because it does not have the correct braking cables to work the brakes, and the brakes will start to rust and break loose.

• Question

  Why does only one side of the caliber movement?

  

  Linear pull brakes have tension adapt screws near the pivots. Adjust them until the movement is even.

• Question

  Tin can I replace my back bicycle brake cables with the front cables? I don't employ my forepart brakes, but the back.

  

  They probably won't be long enough, because the back brake cables are longer than the front end brake cables.

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Video

• If you take internally mounted cables, threading the cable through the bike'due south frame is a challenge. Utilize a long, sparse pipe every bit a conduit so the cable doesn't get lost in the frame. Bike shops typically take lengths of bit pipe that would be suitable.

• To thread an internal brake cable, keep the cable inside the frame as you slide the sparse piping over its entire length. Hold the pipe within the frame as you pull the old cablevision out of the pipe, then slide the new cable into the pipe. Later on the new cable's in identify, slide off the pipe.^[29]

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• Handle wire cutters and whatsoever other sharp tools with caution.

• Exist sure to check the brakes before going on a ride.

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Things You'll Need

• five mm Allen key
• Restriction cable designed for your wheel
• Brake cablevision housing
• Bicycle-specific cablevision cutters or wire cutters
• Needle nose pliers
• Null ties (optional)
• Fourth manus tool (optional)
• Grip record (optional)

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Article Summary X

To change a bicycle restriction cablevision, starting time by snipping the crimped end off of the inner cable and loosening the compression bolt with a 5 millimeter Allen fundamental. Then, rotate the butt adjuster on the handlebar counterclockwise, and slide the cable out from the brake lever. Adjacent, take off the outer cable housing if you're replacing it, or just slide the cable out of the housing if you're not. Finally, install your new brake cable and trim and crimp the excess cablevision at the terminate. For tips on how to install the new bike brake cablevision, scroll down!

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Source: https://www.wikihow.com/Change-a-Bicycle-Brake-Cable

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